Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Low Carb Whole Milk Replacement for Ice Cream - Part 2

Let’s recap the results of part one. Replacing whole milk with almond milk for use in ice cream can be achieved by adding whey and casein proteins. In order to ensure these proteins and the fat from the heavy cream result in a homogeneous ice cream mix, we will require the following:

Mixing


I’ve found that a hand mixer works really well. I tried an immersion hand blender, but it didn’t integrate the ingredients any better and made more of a mess. A blender is the best tool for integrating the ingredients. However, hot liquids in a blender can be dangerous, so be careful.

Heat


We’re going to heat the ice cream mix at the typical pasteurization temperature of 161 °F for five minutes. Yes, pasteurization at this temperature only takes 15 seconds, but that’s not the point. We want to denature the proteins so they’ll bind to the water molecules. This is a Philadelphia style ice cream mix, so no egg yolks are added. We’re not making a custard. (You can make an egg-based custard at this lower temperature, but it takes longer and I’m lazy, so I usually don’t.) The added whey protein should provide the needed emulsification in lieu of the lecithin from the yolks.

Aging


Probably the most overlooked part of the process, but it’s essential. We must age the mix in the refrigerator for at least 4-6 hours, but preferably overnight. You cannot skip this step. The ice cream mix will be very viscous after it’s had time to settle. A quick stir/whisk will loosen it right up right before a churn.

Low Carb 11.5% Fat Philadelphia-style Ice Cream Base


This base is lower in fat and calories due to relative lack of heavy cream. The higher water content means the freezing point will be higher and the lower fat may result in a diminished flavor profile. To combat these issues, we’re ramping up the sweetness by adding more Truvia and sucralose. The additional erythritol from the Truvia should help depress the freezing point slightly, but additional vegetable glycerine will also be required. I’ve noticed that a level scoop of whey and casein result in slightly more powder than the weights shown in the recipe and on their respective nutritional labels. It’s fine; just use the scoops that are provided in the containers. And yes, the scoops from each container are different. Don’t mix them up since we want a little more whey than casein.

I’m providing instructions using a hand mixer and a blender. My blender is designed to work with hot liquids and is extremely powerful. If you blend at too high of a speed or for too long, you will get too much air in your ice cream mix. Do not exceed 20 seconds of blend times specified. Follow my directions carefully if using a blender to avoid getting you and your kitchen doused with hot gooey liquid.

You may want to make this mix in advance and store in large jars until needed. The following recipe makes a generous quart of ice cream.

Ingredients


2 cups (484 g) unsweetened almond milk or equivalent
2 tablespoons Truvia
Big pinch salt
1 level scoop (36 g) unflavored whey protein isolate
1 level scoop (28 g) unflavored micellar casein
28 drops EZ-Sweetz
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum or ½ teaspoon Dixie Diner’s Thick It Up Low Carb Thickener
2 tablespoons (38 g) vegetable glycerin
1 cup (238 g) heavy cream

UPDATE 2017-05-08: This comes out even better if you use Fairlife Whole Milk in place of the almond milk and cut the whey protein (18 g) and casein (14 g) scoops in half.

Directions

Hand Mixer

  1. Add all the ingredients except the heavy cream to the 8 cup Pyrex measuring cup.

    Everything except the heavy cream.

    Beat with an electric mixer at maximum speed for approximately one minute.
  2. Add the heavy cream and stir with a silicone spatula gently. Do not use an electric mixer while the heavy cream is cold.
  3. Transfer mix to a small pot (preferably non-stick) and heat on medium to medium-high while constantly stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot using a heat resistant silicone spatula. Monitor the temperature. When it reaches 161 °F, lower the heat, start a cooking timer, and keep stirring for five more minutes. Do not allow the temperature get much hotter or cooler. Remove pot from the heat source temporarily while stirring, if needed.
  4. Transfer mix back to the 8 cup Pyrex measuring cup and beat with an electric mixer at maximum speed for approximately five minutes.
  5. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in a refrigerator for 4-6 hours, but preferably overnight.
  6. Remove from the refrigerator. The mix will be thick and slightly gelatinous. Add whatever flavoring is desired like vanilla extract, and mix by hand with a silicone spatula or whisk before transferring to the ice cream maker. The mix should be homogeneous.

Blender

  1. Add all the ingredients except the heavy cream to the blender container. Blend at the lowest speed for approximately 10 seconds.
  2. Add the heavy cream to a small pot (preferably non-stick). Pour the contents from the blender and scrape its sides out using a silicone spatula.
  3. Heat on medium to medium-high while constantly stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot using a heat resistant silicone spatula. Monitor the temperature. When it reaches 161 °F, lower the heat, start a cooking timer, and keep stirring for five more minutes. Do not allow the temperature get much hotter or cooler. Remove pot from the heat source temporarily while stirring, if needed.
  4. Transfer mix to the blender container.

    Siren Failure to follow these directions carefully may result in hot ice cream mix EXPLODING out the top of your blender! Siren

    Stir the mix in the blender with the spatula by hand for at least ten seconds. Quickly put the cover on the blender container. Hold the cover down tightly. Do not cover any venting holes. Turn the blender on at its lowest speed. You may feel a jolt of pressure from the hot air pushing on the cover of the blender container. Blend for approximately 10 seconds. Pour the contents into a 4 cup Pyrex measuring cup.
  5. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in a refrigerator for 4-6 hours, but preferably overnight.
  6. Remove from the refrigerator. The mix will be thick and slightly gelatinous. Add whatever flavoring is desired like vanilla extract, and mix by hand with a silicone spatula or whisk before transferring to the ice cream maker. The mix should be homogeneous.

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